PUSHIN' THROUGH PANAMA

(NK) The Caribbean route took us to Costa Rica's southern coastline. The small settlements along this coast road are idyllic. Thick jungle full of wildlife meet stunning beaches and crystal clear water. It was here we teamed up with the lovely Linda - our Belgian friend from Belize. She made sure I could still roll one for her and sure enough, I have a talent for something illegal (in some countries at least). It was great to see her again and catch up.

They see me rollin'

We also met a super hero called Dave the Wave. At 55, Dave was living the dream. A very spiritual man he also liked to surf and carried his board everywhere. With his long blonde hair and killer abs he also had a taste for younger women, especially teaching them how to swim. We spent a day at the beach with Dave, he showed me his daily workout. It was very ab focused but I'm not afraid to admit that I had my ass kicked by a 55 year old. Love you Dave, keep riding that wave wherever you are. Another amazing person in a growing list of amazing people we've met.

Our crossing into Panama was the first one without Trisha. We had to carry our own cases across a rickety old bridge and into Panama. Our first stop was Bocas Del Toro but it was carnival and the place was rocking. Unfortunately so were our stomachs and we spent two days getting ourselves sorted before moving on. As a result we missed out many of the islands but our time in Panama was limited. We wanted to get to Santa Catalina and dive with sharks and other big stuff.

Nowadays we walk across borders.. sniff

This meant a 12 hour bus ride with three changes. After driving everywhere it was nice to sit back and let someone else dodge the lunatics. From a 7am start we arrived in Santa Catalina just before the sun went down. We'd made a rooky mistake though - how many more can we make? The town is in the back and beyond with very little wifi and no cash machines - and only a small number of places took cards. We managed to get sorted for the first night but spent the next day sorting our lives out. The two hour bus ride to the nearest cash machine didn't float our boat. 

After spending so long camping and staying scrimping we splashed out for a few days and stayed at a beautiful place called Buena Vida. It had all the luxuries - hot water, king size memory foam bed, a ceiling fan. Plus the food was amazing.

Settled in we got on with what we came here for - diving. We'd never dived in the Pacific but had been told it was the place to go for big shoals of fish and sharks. Just off Santa Catalina is the island of Coiba and it's protected marine park. Until recently it was a penal colony and with Santa Catalina being fairly inaccessible except for one road, the waters are teeming with sea life. 

Boat party

Put that lip away

Two days of diving we saw sharks, huge shoals of jacks, manta rays, sting rays and some Tuna almost as big as us. Fi was not happy when I motioned her to come and look behind a rock with me. I don't think she was expecting the 8ft reef shark lying on the bottom.

Idyllic

Leo Sayer crossed with a Fraggle

Wind swept

No sooner had we slipped into the easy pace of life at Santa Catalina, it was time to catch a bus to Panama City. This catching the bus business is easy enough but we did still miss Trisha.

After arriving in Panama City we took a taxi to our hostel. Most cities in Central America are dangerous but Panama City is fairly wealthy from the canal profits and commerce it brings with it. When Fi saw a drunk guy asleep surrounded by police, she was shocked to hear the taxi driver say "na, el muerto." murdered at 3pm in the afternoon. Even the wealth of this city doesn't necessarily make it safe or safer.

old bit

new bit

Like other places we would need to be sensible. When we reached hostel Aleman we were surprised to find a German flag flying outside. Then it clicked, I'd booked it in a rush not giving a thought to he name. Aleman is Spanish for German. We were staying at a hostel by Germans for Germans which felt a little odd at first. It turned out to be a great place with lots of lovely German guests and a cool Californian who owns a cigar factory in the Dominican Republic. 

The next day we were going to the canal and teamed up with a couple who were also going to the bus station. As we wandered through the neighbourhoods we thought nothing of it until an SUV pulled up beside us. A young women leaned out and said - "You shouldn't be walking here, it's not safe for you."

A couple of encounters with drunk desperate people later and we were safely on the bus towards the Panama Canal. We marvelled at the Mira Flores locks - imagine the Rochdale ship canal for giants and you're close. Sadly they were doing repairs so we didn't see any ship going through. We did get to watch a propaganda based video on how the canal was built.

Wankers

Massive locks

The next day, we left Central America.

It wasn't what we were expecting but wow it was an experience never to be forgotten. Life's lessons, friendships, amazing times, scary times - it has been a wild ride. From crossing into Mexico surrounded by gunfire to putting a con man behind bars and meeting mother Ayahuasca. It has been a lifetime within a lifetime and we are eternally grateful for the things we have done and the fantastic people we have met.

We've stayed at over 60 different places and drove over 10,000 miles but the beat and rhythm of this bat shit crazy region cannot be put into words or numbers. It is a troubled area where life is cheap and the situation has little hope of getting better. Not while certain super powers continue to manipulate and coerce governments and local people.

Despite the dangers we were robbed a grand total of zero times and shot at zero times - well they weren't shooting at us, more like all around us. Yet even with it's reputation for edginess, the warmth, friendliness and willingness to help from the people that live here everyday gives hope.

We hope an answer is found that can bring some peace. It is a truly beautiful part of the world with a culture and history as ancient as it is mystical.

Hasta Luego!!!!!